How long does it take to replace a kitchen faucet?

For a straightforward swap (same number of holes, accessible under-sink space), plan for 1–2 hours. Add time if the old supply line nuts are corroded, if your cabinet access is cramped, or if you're drilling new holes in the sink.

Do I need to turn off the main water supply to replace a faucet?

Ideally no — most sinks have shutoff valves under the sink for hot and cold. Turn those clockwise until they stop, then open the faucet to relieve pressure. If the shutoffs are missing, corroded, or leaking, turn off the main supply instead.

What is a single-hole vs 3-hole faucet?

Single-hole faucets need one hole in the sink deck (for the spout/handle combined). 3-hole faucets use two side holes for separate handles plus a center hole for the spout. Match your replacement to your existing hole configuration, or buy a faucet with a deck plate that covers extra holes.

Why is my new faucet dripping after installation?

Usually a supply line connection not fully tightened, or a missing or cross-threaded washer. Turn off the supply, dry the connection, and retighten one quarter-turn past hand-tight. Don't overtighten — that can crack plastic fittings.

How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet (No Plumber Needed)

A leaking, corroded, or outdated kitchen faucet is one of the more satisfying DIY plumbing jobs — it's a visible upgrade with a clear before-and-after. The job involves no soldering, no pipe cutting, and no specialized tools. The main challenge is working in a cramped under-sink cabinet with your arms overhead.

What You'll Need

Replacement faucet (matching hole count — see FAQ)
Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
Pliers
Bucket and towels
Plumber's tape (Teflon tape)

Optional but very helpful:

Ridgid Basin Wrench — reaches the mounting nuts under the sink that are nearly impossible to access with a standard wrench
WD-40 — for loosening corroded supply line nuts

Recommended faucets:

Moen Arbor One-Handle Kitchen Faucet — excellent quality, lifetime warranty, easy install
Delta Faucet Leland Single-Handle — reliable, good spray function, widely available parts
Kohler Simplice Single-Hole Faucet — clean design, very durable ceramic cartridge

Affiliate disclosure: This page contains affiliate links. We may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

Step 1: Choose the Right Faucet

Before buying, check:

Hole count: Look at your sink deck — how many holes does it have? Single-hole, 3-hole (4-inch spread), or 8-inch widespread? Buy a faucet that matches, or one that includes a deck plate to cover extra holes.
Spout reach and height: Measure the distance from the center hole to the center of the sink basin. The spout should reach the center without hitting the back wall when swung.
Supply line length: Most new faucets include supply lines. If yours doesn't, measure the distance from under the sink to the shutoff valves.

Step 2: Clear Out Under the Sink and Turn Off Water

Empty the cabinet under the sink. Place a bucket and towels under the supply lines.

Turn the hot and cold shutoff valves clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to release pressure and drain remaining water from the lines.

Step 3: Disconnect the Supply Lines

The supply lines connect from the faucet inlets down to the shutoff valves. Use a wrench to loosen the nuts — counterclockwise. Have the bucket ready; some water will spill.

If the nuts won't budge, spray WD-40 on the connections and wait 10 minutes before trying again.

Step 4: Disconnect the Sprayer Hose (If Present)

Side sprayers connect via a hose that runs under the sink to the faucet body. Unclip or unscrew the connection at the faucet end and pull the hose back through its hole.

For pull-down or pull-out faucets, the sprayer is built into the faucet and comes out with the unit.

Step 5: Remove the Mounting Hardware

Under the sink, the faucet is held by mounting nuts on the underside of the sink deck — usually one or two large plastic or metal nuts. Use a basin wrench (or large pliers in an accessible location) to turn them counterclockwise.

This is the hardest part of the job: you're lying on your back in a cramped cabinet, working with your arms overhead. A basin wrench reaches the mounting nuts that a standard wrench can't access.

Once the nuts are off, lift the old faucet out from the top.

Step 6: Clean the Sink Deck

Old faucets leave a ring of grime, mineral deposits, and old putty or sealant. Clean the sink deck thoroughly with a mild abrasive cleaner before installing the new faucet — the new faucet base needs to seal against a clean surface.

Step 7: Install the New Faucet

Most modern kitchen faucets use a rubber or plastic base gasket rather than plumber's putty — follow the specific instructions in your faucet box.

Lower the faucet through the sink hole(s) and hand-thread the mounting nut from below. Have a helper hold the faucet steady and centered from above while you tighten the nut from below with the basin wrench.

Snug is enough — overtightening cracks plastic mounting hardware.

Step 8: Connect the Supply Lines

Most new faucets include braided stainless supply lines already attached to the faucet inlets.

Wrap 2–3 turns of plumber's tape clockwise around the threads of the shutoff valve stems. Thread the supply line nuts onto the shutoff valves by hand, then tighten 1–1.5 turns with a wrench. Do not overtighten — the lines have built-in washers that seal the connection.

Hot to hot, cold to cold: The hot supply typically comes from the left shutoff valve; cold from the right (when facing the sink). Most faucets label their supply inlets H and C.

Step 9: Turn On Water and Check for Leaks

Slowly open the shutoff valves. Turn the faucet on briefly to flush any debris from the new lines. Let the water run for 30 seconds, then turn it off.

Dry all connections with a paper towel and check every joint visually after 5 minutes. A dry joint is a good joint. Any drip means a connection needs another quarter-turn.

Step 10: Install the Sprayer (If Included)

Pull-down and pull-out sprayers thread onto the faucet body or snap into a quick-connect fitting. Route the hose through the spout and connect per the faucet instructions. Attach the counterweight (if included) to the hose to help it retract.

When to Call a Plumber

Shutoff valves are corroded solid and won't turn — replacing them requires turning off the main water supply and some pipe work
You notice the supply lines connect to copper pipes (older homes) rather than flexible braided lines — a plumber can add proper shutoff valves
There's corrosion or water damage inside the cabinet suggesting a pre-existing leak